Why We Ended Up in Makarska
Makarska wasn’t originally on our radar. It was Alexandra who first suggested it, mentioning she’d been there as a child on a family trip to Croatia. We weren’t sure what to expect from a place remembered mainly through the eyes of a ten-year-old, but we went, and we were both genuinely glad we did.
What stayed with us most wasn’t the beaches or the nightlife. It was the setting. Makarska sits between the Adriatic Sea and the Biokovo mountain range, and the contrast is striking in a way that photos don’t quite capture. You’re swimming in clear blue water, and the mountains are right there behind the town, rising steeply, their upper ridges fading into haze on warm days. It’s the kind of backdrop that makes even a simple evening walk feel like something.
Makarska is also not Split or Dubrovnik. It’s smaller, more relaxed, and noticeably less overrun, at least outside of the absolute peak of August. The food, in our experience, was better than Split’s too, which surprised us. The Riviera stretches out in both directions from town, adding to its appeal: 45 kilometres of coastline, smaller villages, quieter beaches, and the mountains always in the background.
This guide covers what we actually did, what we’d recommend, and where we’d point you if you’re looking for more than just a sunbed on the town beach.
Our Top Hotel Picks in Makarska
- Luxury: Hotel Park Makarska
- Mid-range: Guesthouse Aroma
- Budget: Apartments Lux
Walk the Riva and Explore the Old Town
The Riva is the kind of promenade that earns its reputation. A palm-lined waterfront walkway running along the harbour, it’s busy in the way that good places are busy: cafes spilling onto the pavement, boats bobbing at the dock, people moving slowly because there’s no reason to rush. In the evening, with the light dropping over the water, it becomes one of those places where you keep walking a little further.
What made it for us was the view along the coast. The mountains don’t disappear as you look north or south; they stretch into the distance, growing hazier and more dramatic the further they go, with the clear Adriatic right in front of them. It’s an unusual combination, and it gives Makarska a visual identity that most Dalmatian towns don’t have.
Do you have more time in Croatia? Read also: One Week in Croatia – Dalmatian Coast Itinerary (7 Days)
The Makarska Old Town sits just behind the Riva, centred on Kačić Square and the 18th-century Church of St. Mark. The square is pleasant without being showy, and the narrow stone streets around it are worth wandering: local shops, small galleries, and a morning market where you can pick up fresh produce and local cheese. The Franciscan monastery next to the church houses a small shell museum, one of the more unusual collections in the region, if that’s your kind of thing.
On the food front: we found the restaurants in Makarska noticeably better than what we’d eaten in Split. Fresh seafood, honest portions, and none of the tourist-menu feeling that can creep into bigger cities on the Dalmatian coast. The konobas around the Old Town are where we’d point you first.
Tip: The Riva and Old Town are best in the early morning before the day-trippers arrive from Split, and again in the evening when the light is good, and the pace slows right down. Midday in peak summer is the one time to avoid it.
Discover St. Peter’s Peninsula
We’ll be honest: we didn’t make it to St. Peter’s Peninsula ourselves. But it came up enough times, from other travellers we spoke to and from everything we read before the trip, that it deserves a proper mention here.
Park Šuma Sveti Petar, as it’s officially known, is a forested headland that juts out into the Adriatic on the northern edge of town. It’s essentially a pocket of nature sitting right in the middle of Makarska, and the fact that you can walk to it from the Riva in a few minutes makes it one of the easiest half-days you can have here.
A well-maintained circular trail runs around the entire peninsula, taking in swimming spots, a lighthouse dating back to 1884, a small church, and a cave at the southern tip that’s become a popular spot for a swim. The trail is mostly flat and partially paved, so the effort level is low. You’re not hiking so much as wandering, with the option to drop into the water wherever the rocks look inviting.
The swimming spots around the headland are quieter than the main town beach, which is the main reason to go. If you’re visiting in July or August and find Donja Luka packed, the peninsula offers an easy alternative without needing to drive anywhere.
Tip: Go in the late afternoon. The west-facing cliffs catch the last of the sun, and the sunset views from the rocks near the lighthouse are, by all accounts, worth timing your day around.
Find Your Beach
We spent a lot of time in the water in Makarska, and the honest answer to “which beach?” is that it depends entirely on what you’re after.
One thing to know before you go: all beaches on the Makarska Riviera are pebble, not sand. That’s not a complaint, just a fact worth knowing if you’re travelling with young children or if you’ve been picturing a sandy cove. Locals come prepared: water shoes are genuinely useful here, both for walking on the pebbles and because sea urchins are common close to shore. You can pick up water shoes and a padded beach mat at shops along the promenade for a few euros, and you’ll see every local doing exactly that.
Donja Luka, the main town beach, is long, well-equipped, and convenient. Cafes and restaurants line the back of it, there’s a designated swimming area, and sunbeds and umbrellas are available for around €20 ($22) for two. In peak summer, it fills up fast, so arrive before 9 am if you want a good spot. It’s a great family beach, but if you’re looking for something quieter, keep reading.
Nugal Beach was our favourite. Getting there requires a 25-minute walk through the Osejava Forest Park, a pine-shaded coastal path that’s pleasant enough to be worth doing for its own sake. The beach itself is a small, secluded cove at the base of a cliff: clear water, white pebbles, and enough natural shade from the pines that it stays bearable even in August. Nugal is a naturist beach, but it welcomes everyone, and nobody makes anything of it. There are no facilities, so bring water and something to eat.
For families, Cvitačka and Ramova beaches have shallow water and nearby amenities. If you’re after more of a scene, Biloševac draws a younger crowd with beach bars and a livelier vibe.
Hike (or Drive) Up to Biokovo Nature Park
We didn’t make it up to Biokovo on this trip, and it’s one of the things we’d put near the top of the list for a return visit. The park dominates the skyline behind Makarska so completely that you spend the whole trip looking up at it.
Biokovo Nature Park covers the mountain range that rises almost directly behind the town, reaching its highest point at Sveti Jure, the second-highest peak in Croatia at 1,762 metres. On a clear day from the top, you can see the Dalmatian islands spread out across the Adriatic, and in exceptional conditions, as far as Italy. The contrast between that view and the coastline you’ve just come from is apparently something else entirely.
The headline attraction is the Biokovo Skywalk, a glass-floored observation deck that extends out over the cliff edge at 1,228 metres. It opened in 2020 and has become one of the most visited spots in the region. If heights don’t bother you, it’s the kind of experience that’s difficult to replicate anywhere else on the Dalmatian coast.
Getting up there requires some planning. The road into the park is narrow, steep, and not particularly forgiving if you’re not comfortable on mountain roads. Driving yourself is doable, but a guided tour is the more relaxed option and gives you better access to the park’s interior. Either way, book your entry tickets in advance, especially in summer, as capacity is limited.
Don’t want to hike up? Check out this tour where you can take the lift up.
For hikers, the trail to Vosac Peak starts from the edge of Makarska town and is the most accessible route into the park: 2.9 kilometres, well-signposted, and manageable for anyone reasonably fit.
Tip: Go early in the morning or on a slightly overcast day if you’re visiting in July or August. The heat at altitude in full sun is more intense than it looks from sea level, and the views are often clearer before the midday haze sets in.
Go Rock Climbing
Makarska has a genuine reputation as a climbing destination that most travel guides overlook entirely, and it’s worth flagging if you’re the type who likes to mix things up beyond beaches and hikes.
The climbing here is on limestone cliffs with fantastic views over the Adriatic, which by any measure is a reasonable place to spend a morning on the rock. Routes exist for all levels, from first-timers to experienced climbers, and the setting makes even the easier ones feel worthwhile.
The most practical way to do it is to hire a local guide. A guide brings all the gear, knows which routes suit your level, and handles the logistics of getting you to the right spot. For anyone who hasn’t climbed before, it also takes the guesswork out of safety. The company Mountain Summit Adventures is well-regarded locally and is a good starting point for booking.
If you don’t want to climb but think you might enjoy zip-lining, check out this tour.
Take a Boat Trip
We took a rental boat with a skipper in Split, and it ended up being one of the best days of our entire time in Croatia. We’re both at our happiest on the water, and having a skipper meant we could focus entirely on that: jumping in wherever the colour of the water looked right, anchoring in bays we’d never have found from the shore, and moving on whenever we felt like it. Of course, you can also rent your own boat.
You just want to check out a few cool spots? Check the availability of a speedboat tour here.
The same logic applies in Makarska, arguably even more so. The Makarska Riviera is best seen from the water. The coastline looks completely different from out at sea, the mountains behind the town take on a different scale, and the smaller coves and hidden bays along the Riviera are only really accessible by boat.
From Makarska, you can reach Brač Island in around 35 minutes by ferry, with Zlatni Rat beach, the famous golden horn that shifts shape with the current, as the main draw. Hvar is another popular option, a bit further, but worth it for the old town and the island’s interior. For a group or a couple looking for something more private, hiring a boat with a skipper gives you the flexibility to build your own day rather than following someone else’s itinerary.
Tip: If you’re splitting the cost of a private hire across four or more people, it often works out comparable in price to a group tour, and the experience is considerably better. It’s worth doing the numbers before you default to the organised option.
Day Trip to the Makarska Riviera Towns
One of the things that makes Makarska a genuinely good base is what sits on either side of it. The Makarska Riviera stretches for 45 kilometres, and while the town itself is the obvious centre of gravity, some of the most beautiful beaches on the entire stretch are in the smaller villages a short drive away.
Brela, about 20 minutes north of Makarska, is where we’d point most people first. Its main beach, Punta Rata, is consistently rated among the most beautiful in Croatia, and it’s easy to see why: a long curve of white pebble shore lined with pine trees that grow right down to the water’s edge, with the signature Brela Rock sitting just offshore. The shade of the pine forests makes it noticeably more comfortable in peak summer heat than Makarska’s open town beach, and it tends to be quieter too.
Tucepi, just a few minutes south of Makarska, has a 4-kilometre beach, the longest on the Riviera. It’s more spread out than the town beach, which means even on a busy day, you can usually find a decent patch of space. The village itself is low-key and pleasant, with a small harbour and a handful of good konobas.
Baška Voda, further north, has a similar feel: a relaxed, smaller-scale version of Makarska without the summer crowds. Good for a half-day if you want a change of scene without going far.
Tip: If you arrive at Makarska beach in August and find it packed, drive 20 minutes north to Brela instead. Punta Rata is the better beach by most measures, and the crowd difference in peak season is noticeable.
Day Trip to Kravica Waterfalls and Mostar
This was one of the highlights of the trip for us, and we’d recommend it without hesitation. Kravica Waterfalls and Mostar can be combined into a single day trip from Makarska, crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the contrast between the two makes for a genuinely varied day out.
Kravica Waterfalls are about 1.5 to 2 hours from Makarska by car. The falls cascade 25 metres into a wide natural pool, forming a horseshoe of green water and white spray that’s immediately impressive when you round the corner and see it for the first time. Swimming is allowed in the pool below, which on a hot August day is reason enough to go. We found it less dramatic than Krka National Park in terms of scale, but the setting is different: wilder, less manicured, and far fewer facilities. That’s part of the appeal.
One practical note: arrive early or late. Kravica gets very crowded at peak midday in summer, and the experience is considerably better with fewer people in the pool.
Mostar is roughly another 45 minutes from Kravica. The Stari Most bridge is the obvious landmark, a beautiful 16th-century Ottoman arch over the Neretva River, and the old bazaar around it is worth an hour of wandering. What genuinely surprised us, though, was the food. Eating in Bosnia was some of the best value of the entire trip, noticeably cheaper than Croatia and with a completely different flavour profile: grilled meats, fresh bread, strong coffee. We came away wishing we’d budgeted more time for it.
Please note: Most European and many other nationalities can enter Bosnia and Herzegovina without a visa, but check the requirements for your passport before you go. You’ll need your passport rather than just an ID card at the border crossing.
Day Trip to Krka National Park
Krka is one of those places that justifies the drive on its own. About 1.5 hours from Makarska, it’s a straightforward day trip and one of the most visited natural sites in Croatia, which tells you something about what to expect in terms of crowds, but also about the quality of what’s there.
The centrepiece is Skradinski Buk, a series of cascading waterfalls that step down through a landscape of travertine rock and vivid green pools. The scale of it is genuinely impressive, and the walking paths around the falls are well-maintained and easy to navigate. Further into the park, Roski Slap offers quieter hiking trails and good viewpoints for those who want to get away from the main crowds.
The park also has a historical dimension that’s worth knowing about. Visovac Island, accessible by boat within the park, holds a 15th-century Franciscan monastery. Krka Monastery, further upstream, is one of the oldest Orthodox monasteries in the region. Neither are essential stops, but they add context to what might otherwise feel like a purely nature-focused visit.
Book your tickets in advance (you can do this here), especially in July and August. Entry sells out, and the early morning slots are significantly more pleasant than arriving at midday. If you want the full picture on Krka, we’ve written a dedicated guide that covers everything in detail.
Read also: Krka National Park: Ultimate Travel Guide
Explore the Imotski Lakes
The Imotski Lakes don’t appear on most Makarska itineraries, which is exactly why they’re worth including here. Sitting about 45 minutes inland from the coast, they’re an easy half-day from Makarska and one of the more dramatic landscapes in the region.
There are two lakes, and they couldn’t be more different from each other. Blue Lake sits inside a vast karst depression, its water level shifting dramatically with the seasons: deep and vivid blue in spring, shrunk to a fraction of its size by late summer. The viewpoint from the rim of the crater is one of those perspectives that takes a moment to process. Red Lake, a short walk away, is deeper, wilder, and more unsettling in the best possible way. Its sheer cliffs drop straight into dark water with no path down, and the scale of the crater is difficult to judge from the top.
The town of Imotski itself is pleasant for a coffee stop, with a small old town and a relaxed pace that feels a long way from the coastal tourist circuit.
Blue Lake’s appearance changes significantly depending on the time of year. Visiting in late summer means the water level will be considerably lower than the photos you’ve likely seen. It’s still worth going, but it’s worth knowing in advance, so it doesn’t catch you off guard.
Tip: Combine this with Kravica and Mostar if you want a full cross-border day, or treat it as a standalone half-day when you want a break from the beach without committing to a long drive.
Where to Eat, Drink, and Spend Your Evenings
Makarska’s food scene was one of the genuine surprises of the trip for us. The quality was consistently better than what we’d found in Split, and the prices were more honest, too. Fresh fish dominates, as it does across Dalmatia, but the konobas around the Old Town cook it properly: simply, with good olive oil, local herbs, and the kind of confidence that comes from not needing to impress tourists.
Konoba Kalalarga is the place we’d point you to first. Tucked into the Old Town, it serves classic Dalmatian food in a setting that feels genuinely local rather than staged for visitors. Restaurant Riva along the promenade is the obvious choice for a long seafood lunch with harbour views. Basta, also on the seafront, has a slightly more contemporary feel and is a good option for a relaxed sunset dinner.
On the drinking side, the thing to order in Dalmatia is gemišt: white wine mixed with sparkling water, ice-cold, and exactly right for a warm afternoon on a terrace. Local Plavac Mali red and Pošip white are both worth trying if you want something more serious. For beer drinkers, the local Ožujsko lager is light and easy and available everywhere, but Makarska also has a small craft brewery in the town centre that’s worth a stop if you want something with a bit more character.
The evening on the Riva was lively without being overwhelming. We’re not particularly drawn to nightlife, so we can’t speak from experience about the club scene, but Deep, a nightclub built inside a natural cave on the Osejava Peninsula, has a reputation that precedes it. From what we saw walking past, it lives up to the setting. For everyone else, the promenade bars are busy and relaxed well into the night, and that was more than enough for us.
Tip: Book ahead for dinner at Konoba Kalalarga in peak summer. It fills up by 7.30 pm, and walk-ins get harder as the evening goes on.
When to Go to Makarska
We went in August, and we’d go back in August. That said, it’s worth knowing what you’re signing up for.
The weather is straightforward: hot, sunny, and reliable. The sea is at its warmest, and the town is fully alive, every restaurant open, boat trips running daily, and the Riva is busy in that easy Dalmatian way that makes evenings feel effortless. For us, that energy was part of the appeal rather than something to avoid.
The honest caveat is that Makarska town beach gets crowded in August, and the centre of town at peak midday reflects that. The fix is simple enough: go early, use the quieter options like Nugal Beach and the Riviera villages, and save the Riva for the evening when it’s at its best anyway. We never felt overwhelmed, but we also weren’t trying to find a sunbed on the main beach at noon in the middle of the week.
September is widely considered the sweet spot if you have flexibility: still warm, noticeably quieter, and the sea holds its summer temperature well into the month. The light in the evenings is better, too.
May and October suit anyone focused on hiking Biokovo or using Makarska as a day-trip base rather than a beach destination. Pleasant temperatures, empty roads, but the sea will be too cool for most people.
Winter is quiet to the point of stillness. Good for Biokovo, but a number of restaurants and facilities close from November through March and the town feels like a different place entirely.
How to Get to Makarska and Get Around
Getting there is straightforward from most points in Dalmatia. Split Airport is the closest international gateway, around 85 kilometres from Makarska. From the airport, you can rent a car, take a shuttle, or get a taxi to the centre.
By car is how we’d recommend doing it, both for the arrival and for everything that comes after. The drive down the Adriatic Highway from Split takes around 1.5 hours, and the coastal stretch is scenic enough to feel like the trip has already started before you arrive. If you’re coming from further afield, Makarska sits on the D8 coastal road and is well-connected in both directions.
By bus is a reliable and cheap alternative if you’re not renting a car. Regular services run from Split, Dubrovnik, and Zagreb, and the bus station sits in the centre of town, which makes arriving without a car genuinely easy.
By ferry is an option if you’re island-hopping: connections run between Makarska and both Brač and Hvar, which makes it possible to arrive from the islands rather than from the mainland.
Once you’re in Makarska, the town itself is walkable. The Old Town, the Riva, the marina, and the main beaches are all within easy reach on foot, and that’s how most people get around day to day.
For anything beyond the town, a rental car makes a significant difference. The Riviera villages, Biokovo, Kravica, Krka, Imotski: none of these is impossible without a car, but all of them are considerably easier with one. The coastal road is straightforward to drive, and the scenery makes even the transfers feel worthwhile.
Parking in Makarska town centre in August is tight, and we say that from personal experience. We parked with complete confidence in a spot that turned out to be not quite as legal as it looked, and came back to find a ticket on the windscreen. The Croatian parking authorities, it turns out, are efficient.
Where to Stay in Makarska
Makarska has accommodation at every level, and the decision mostly comes down to whether you want to be in the town itself or somewhere quieter along the Riviera.
Staying in Makarska town puts you in the middle of everything: the Riva, the Old Town, the restaurants, and the marina are all walkable. It’s the right choice if you want the full summer atmosphere and don’t mind the busier streets. If you’d prefer more peace and a less crowded beach, basing yourself in one of the Riviera villages like Brela or Tucepi and driving into Makarska for an evening is a genuinely good alternative that not enough people consider.
Within Makarska town, the options break down roughly as follows:
Luxury: Hotel Park Makarska sits right on the beach and has a pool, spa, and the kind of position that justifies the price in peak season. Aparthotel Miramare offers comfortable rooms with sea views, a short walk from the beach. Good value for the location and a solid base for a week on the Riviera.
Mid-range: Guesthouse Aroma is the sweet spot for anyone looking for clean, beautiful accommodations that aren’t overpriced.
Budget: Apartments Lux covers the basics well for solo travellers or anyone keeping costs down.
Beyond the hotels, private apartments are the most popular option in Makarska and across the Riviera, and for good reason. Many come with terraces, sea or mountain views, and a level of space that hotels at the same price point can’t match. For groups or anyone staying more than a few nights, it’s worth looking at apartments seriously before defaulting to a hotel.
Tip: Wherever you book, check whether parking is included if you’re arriving by car. In August, especially, accommodation with a dedicated parking spot is worth paying a little more for.
Our Verdict on Makarska
Makarska stayed with us in a way that not every destination does. It’s not the most famous stop on the Dalmatian coast, and it doesn’t try to be. What it has is something harder to manufacture: a setting that genuinely stops you in your tracks, a town that functions at a human scale, and enough going on in every direction that a week disappears without any effort at all.
Alexandra had been here as a child and remembered it fondly, which set the bar higher than we’d have chosen. Makarska cleared it comfortably. The mountains, the water, the food, the evenings on the Riva: all of it held up, and then some.
If you’re planning a trip to Croatia and weighing up where to spend your time, Makarska and the Riviera deserve more consideration than they usually get. It’s not a hidden gem in the way that phrase usually means, but it’s consistently overlooked in favour of Split and Dubrovnik, and that gap in attention is very much to your advantage if you go.
If you’ve been to Makarska and have a favourite beach, restaurant, or day trip we haven’t covered, we’d love to hear about it in the comments below. And if you’re still in the planning stage and have questions, drop them there too. We’re happy to help.
